AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |
Back to Blog
Small hitch pins for rc cars8/10/2023 ![]() ![]() You should be able to apply the techniques from this project to other RX2/TX2 based RC projects with a modest effort.Īnd now for the fun part. There's a good chance your RX2/TX2 based RC gadget was made by a different vendor with different wire colors and based on different schematics. I might add two more LEDs to simulate the 2nd motor's Forward and Backward functions. I am sure there are better ways of doing this but it was the quickest at the time. Just connect a small DC lamp or a DC motor to test your circuit. This is to simulate a motor turning one way (e.g. When the voltage is positive, one LED will turn on, when it's negative, the other LED will turn on. It's a mini breadboard made up of two LEDs, two diodes, and two resistors both in parallel but rigged for opposite polarities. My LED testing circuit was put together on the fly. I won't describe it in detail because it's not relevant to his project. But if you insist on using LED's, I came up with a quick and dirty test circuit based on LEDs. Forward vs Back), we can't just use LEDs as-is since an LED passes current in one direction only but not the other. Since the receiver's h-bridge (geek term for circuit that drives motors) switches between positive and negative voltage depending on whether it's driving the motor in one direction or the other (e.g. I know some of you will be tempted to just use LEDs to test the rig. DC motors, small DC lamps, or relays to test your final TX2/RX2 system depending on what you plan to use it for. 4 X AA (6V) battery source to supply the receiver. It just makes for easier handling and wiring. 2 X breadboards to place the transmitter and receiver for wiring. 10K might be overkill but the circuit works. If you want to connect all steering functions (Left, Right, Back, Front) to the Arduino you will need 4 of those. I use each in a series to connect the transmitter's pin to the Arduino's digital pin. ![]() Refer to the datasheet for more details.ģ) Power: The transmitter is powered by 2 AA batteries (3V) and the receiver/car comobo is powered by 4 AA batteries (6V). The h-bridge to drive the DC motors uses power transistors. The transmitter and receiver are driven by the venerable TX2 encoder and RX2 decoder ICs. a) the transmitter b) the receiver c) the H-bridge. So I am not throwing anything away.Ģ) Electronic: There are three main circuits. I won't be using the motors in this project but these toy cars are a great source of motors, gears, h-bridges, and other parts. One motor provides locomotion from the back of the car, the other DC motor in the front provides steering left and right. COMPONENTSġ) Mechanical: For steering and locomotion, the car has 2 DC motors and associated gear. It's also more fun to end your project with your Arduino controlling your RC car instead of just looking at two naked circuits and a blinking LED. Also, the intact receiver + car will act as your test platform. This might be simpler for some of you since you have to only worry about dissecting and wiring the transmitter to the Arduino. I extracted both receiver and controller circuits from the RC car but you may find it easier to just work with the transmitter + Arduino while leaving the receiver and the car intact. The same steps can be duplicated to enable the Arduino to drive the transmitter's BACK and FORWARD function pins. So instead of the user pushing the remote control's joystick to turn the car (or my test rig), the Arduino can be connected and programmed instead to send these commands via the RC car's transmitter. In this project, I will use the Arduino to drive the transmitter's LEFT and RIGHT functions. ![]()
0 Comments
Read More
Leave a Reply. |